Trip Report for February 2006
Day 4
We had another early start, leaving Tendaba Camp to join the Trans-Gambia Highway at Soma , heading for the cross-river ferry at Bambatenda . Just after we left the camp a Lanner Falcon flew across the road giving us all the chance to get a good view. The roads were as bad as any the previous day, with enormous potholes and sheer drops from the tarmac onto sand below. Our journey to the ferry was slow going but Philip's skilful driving got us there without a hitch.
Whilst waiting for the ferry we had good views of a Hamerkop and a Striated Heron in a tree just by the market and two Plain-backed Pipits on the wires. Just before we set off across The River Gambia, we saw a Palm-nut Vulture and an Osprey flapping slowly back and forth across the river. Across the river the road led to Farafenni, then we turned east on the lookout for Egyptian Plovers.
A chat the previous evening with highly-regarded Gambian birder Solomon Jallow led us to understand the Egyptian Plovers were no longer to be found at Kau-ur – that the wetlands were dry, and the Plovers had moved further east, a few kilometres further on.
The road in this area was very good – we travelled quickly and stopped a few times to check out small wetlands on the way.
Keeping us company on our drive were Namaqua Doves – so many, and so pretty with the long black tails and often just flying alongside the road, giving us wonderful views.
At Kau-ur we pulled into the side of the road, carefully avoiding the sheer drop off the tarmac to the earth over a foot below. From this vantage point and in sweltering heat we settled in for a good look around us. There was hardly any water – mostly dry dust, though distant reflections suggested water further away.
Suddenly it was as if the birds had all arrived in one spot. What isn't so obvious whilst driving is just how much there is around and we watched with delight as a Montagu's Harrier flew back and forth in front of us. There was a Marsh Harrier , a Ruppell's Griffon Vulture , a White-backed Vulture , Great White Pelicans and a Marabou Stork all in the sky around us. Collared Pratincoles kept flying past, across the road and back again. There were Black-crowned Sparrow-larks hopping on the ground a few yards away and in well over 40 degrees it was a surprise how many birds were active.
After half an hour we got back into the air-conditioned 4x4 and enjoyed the benefit of the cool vehicle as we set off for the area where we'd been told to look for the Egyptian Plovers.
It wasn't long before we pulled in to the side of the road at Najabanta and all clambered out to search for the Plovers at the water's edge. Immediately an Egyptian Plover was sighted some distance away and we excitedly got our bins and scopes onto it. Suddenly another one was spotted just a few yards from us - blue, black, white and cream, with a beautiful peach blush underneath. It was exquisite and we had superb views for a few minutes until it flew across the water to a point a little further away, still giving wonderful views for another half an hour until it was time for us to leave.
We clambered back into the vehicle, tired but happy at finding the bird we'd heard so much about. With lots of photos taken we knew we'd got some good shots for the album!
It was time to head back to the coast and the decision was made to stay on the north side of the river and catch the ferry at Barra, even though we might have to wait to get on.
The road on the north side of the River Gambia was good in places but as with the road on the way inland there were stretches of potholes and dirt track. On the whole it was better and gave us the chance to stop occasionally and take a few photographs. One sudden stop brought us a smashing African Hawk Eagle and we also saw a Bataleur, rocking gently high above us.
Along one stretch of highway we came upon a bush fire and realised the birds we could see were Black Kites – hundreds of them – and they were feasting on locusts driven up by the fire. The sky was alive with the birds – a wonderful sight. A mile or so down the road was another fire, again with Kites, then a little way further yet another fire. This time we stopped and watched for a while, taking photos of the Kites in the trees, on the road and filling the sky. There were locusts everywhere. It was the most incredible sight – hundreds and hundreds of Kites making the most of the easy prey.
Our drive to Barra was uneventful after that, and having caught the ferry with no problems we were back at Bijilo by 7.30, in time for a shower and dinner.
It was a really fantastic inland trip, exhausting but worth every second of bouncing along the dirt tracks!
