Trip Report for February 2006
Day 3
We had an early start today as we set off for Tendaba and the Kau-ur Wetlands .
We left at 7 am and had our first stop at Mandinaba , where we found another African Harrier Hawk perched close by. In the scrub were a Common Wattle Eye and a Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher , as well as a Yellow-breasted Apalis.
A short distance away we drove along a dirt track and came upon some Double-spurred Francolins crossing, then we pulled up and stretched our legs while we searched for a Northern Wheatear . Sure enough, there was one on a wall, giving good views.
After leaving Mandinaba we set off on the long and arduous journey towards Tendaba. The roads were not wonderful – just a few short areas of decent paved road interspersed with long stretches of dirt track or paved roads in such poor repair that driving was a challenge and a four wheel drive vehicle a necessity!
We had stops on the way, to stretch our legs, look for birds and have a bite to eat. Sightings included Martial Eagle, Long-crested Eagle, Brown Snake Eagle and Bateleur . At a small wetland we found Hamerkop, Squacco Heron and Striated Heron.
White-crested Helmet Shrikes and an African Golden Oriole were lucky finds and a Dark Chanting Goshawk added another raptor to our growing list.
Our arrival at Tendaba was a little later than we expected but brought us a Bruce's Green Pigeon just before we arrived. We had time to unpack, have a drink and a short walk and still be ready for the pirogue trip across the River Gambia to the Bao Bolon Wetlands , where we spent a leisurely three hours birding and unwinding after our long drive.
Crossing the river immediately brought a sighting of a Lesser Crested Tern and a Sandwich Tern .
We had hoped for a sighting of an African Fish Eagle, which are often seen over the river at Tendaba but unfortunately had no luck. As we approached the mangroves an Osprey was perched in a tree and an African Darter on some old branches.
Entering the stillness of the mangrove forest was a welcome change from the bustle of the day, and we quickly had good views of Blue-breasted Kingfishers , Malachite Kingfishers and the ubiquitous Pied Kingfishers. A Goliath Heron took off and lazily flapped away down the creek, then suddenly there was great excitement as an African Finfoot was spotted working its way in the water along the bank, between the mangrove roots. We watched for about ten minutes, then resumed our leisurely journey, spying familiar waders along the banks, a mongoose scuttling away and the occasional Grey Heron. A wonderful glimpse of a White-backed Night Heron was a thrill, then a sudden call from the other end of the boat had us all peering once again into the mangrove roots, and sure enough, there was a massive Giant Clawless Otter – slipping into the water, then back out again as it dived for fish.
Passing high creeks banks with no mangroves brought a couple of group members to their feet, trying to see into the open land beyond. A Woolly-necked Stork was just visible by even the shortest group members, and then we settled back down hoping for more glorious sightings. Rounding a bend, we all saw a sudden movement as a large Nile Crocodile slid quietly into the water, disappearing from view. Three hours after we set off and with the sun going down, we chugged back across the river to Tendaba Camp, for dinner and bed.
